Amid a lingering economic crisis, Athens and its citizens have still found a way to breathe a sense of renewal into the city’s cultural life. There is still a long way to go, but many visitors are surprised to find that it’s not all doom and gloom in the capital. New businesses are sprouting up all over the city at record numbers. Athens is priming itself for a comeback and funnelling a great deal of its creative energy into its food offering. From street food, fine dining and everything in between, Athens’ restaurants will change your thoughts on Greek food forever. This authentic guide of where to eat in Athens, includes traditional tavernas as well as the more polished neo-tavernas that are a growing trend in the city.
Traditional eating, ‘taverna’ style
Tis Theatrou to Steki
Known locally for feeding the hungry workers from the nearby farmer’s markets, this humble eatery serves honest, good quality food on small sharing plates at around 3 euros each. The daily (fresh) selection is on display in a small window. Grilled meats can also be made to order. Some staples include, fava (chickpea dip) sprinkled with shallots and onions, black eye bean salad, boiled spinach and zucchini with olive oil and lemon, lightly battered and pan-fried small anchovies or whitebait that are eaten whole (small bones and all) and is salty and delicious. All perfectly paired with a nice cold beer or homemade wine served in copper carafes. Tsipouro and other Greek spirits are popular with the locals, but you may need a nap or call it a day afterwards. No plates, just pick, eat and enjoy the experience. Open for lunch only (excluding Sundays).
Address: 3-7 Theatrou, Athens T. +30 210 321 5438
For the taxi driver: Της Θεάτρου το Στέκι, Θεάτρου 3-7, Αθήνα
Closest metro station: Monastiraki
To Paradosiako – Spit Roast & BBQ
A paradise for meat lovers in the centre of town, “To Paradosiako” which means “the traditional” serves every kind of animal from lamb, rooster, chicken, pork and more, carved straight from the spit rotisserie to your plate with a standard side of hot fries. You can expect fresh cuts of meat every day with a large selection of salads, cheeses and accompaniments. Simple, delicious and very well-priced. Incredibly popular with both locals and visitors. Serves beer, wine and Greek spirits. Open daily for lunch and dinner. No bookings, turn up and be patient, it’s worth the wait.
Address: 59 Kolokotroni, Syntagma T. +30 210 323 1700
For the taxi driver: Το Παραδοσιακό, Ψητοπωλέιο, Κολοκοτρώνη 59
Closest metro station: Monastiraki
Avli
This makeshift taverna is a perfect example of an Athenian eatery, set up to service the blue-collar workers from neighbouring workshops. And such was the case with Avli (which means courtyard) in Psiri, which started in the 1980s. The district is now a hip area of trendy cafes, boutique hotels and air bnb apartments, but has managed to keep hold of its grittiness, through the narrow graffiti sprayed alleyways. Avli runs a small kitchen with simple fare, like keftedes (meatballs) that are among the best in town, spetzofai (sausage, pepper, onion casserole) along with a variety of small plates or mezedes to share. It is loved by both locals and visitors for its simplicity and casual atmosphere. The house wine and raki is good too. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Closed on Tuesdays.
Address: 12 Agiou Dimitriou, Psiri
For the taxi driver: Αγίου Δημητρίου 12
Closest metro station: Monastiraki
Diporto
It doesn’t get any more rustic than Diporto. Located downtown in the heart of old Athens through the city’s market district, you won’t find any signage out the front and you may need to ask around for directions. When you do find it, you will see two brown hatchet doors leading underground (hence its name which translates to ‘two doors’) to what resembles a bunker. There is no menu and only a handful of dishes available each day. You can be sure everything has been made from scratch that day and is delicious. Established in 1887 it upholds a 129-year-old tradition of old school Greek food that feeds the local working class. You will leave feeling like you’ve just had an eating experience straight out of biblical times. Wine is poured from large wooden barrels that are stacked up against the walls. Diporto is an institution of Athens and is worth the effort.
Address: Cnr Sokratous and Theatrou, Athens. T. +30 210 3211 453
For the taxi driver: Δίπορτο, Σωκράτους και Θεάτρου
Closest metro station: Monastiraki
To Steki tou Ilia
Another old haunt of Athens where you will find lamb chops all year round. ‘Paidakia’ or baby lamb chops has a special place in every Greek’s heart and so it should be no surprise that there is a taverna solely dedicated to them. At To Steki tou Ilia (Ilias’ place) they have perfected the art of preparing and grilling chops. You order by the kilo and for a carnivorous couple, a kilo will suffice. A few basic sides, including a Greek salad or steamed spinach, fava and a plate of fries (that are thick cut and cooked in olive oil and sprinkled with oregano) will make the perfect accompaniment. Ilias has kept up with demand and opened two tavernas within walking distance to each other. It is no-frills eating under the trees on a quiet pedestrian strip in Thissio. You should expect a short wait to be seated in peak season.
Only open for dinner Tue-Fri, Sat: lunch/dinner Sun: lunch only Mon: closed
Τwo Addresses:
5 Eptahalkou, Thissio T. +30 210 345 8052
7 Thessalonikis, Thissio T. +30 210 342 2407
For the taxi driver:
Tο Στέκι του Ηλία
Επταχáλκου 5, ΘΥΣΕΙΟ
Θεσσαλονíκης 7, ΘΥΣΕΙΟ
Closest metro station: Thissio
Klimataria
Live music into the wee hours is what has made Klimataria a favourite with locals. Set in a 100-year-old tavern, down the back streets of the fish market district, this is an original ‘steki’ of Athens with sandstone walls and wooden wine barrels. Its resident band Rebeletiko will lift your spirits, as it plays rebitika music (with a jazz twist) all night long. Traditional dishes include slow cooked lamb, fresh seafood and home made wine. It’s more about a great night out than exceptional eating and the experience doesn’t get any more authentic than this.
Open lunch/dinner Mon – Sun. Bookings recommended
Address: 2 Platia Theatrou, Athens. T. +30 210 321 6629
For the taxi driver: Κληματαριά, Πλατεία Θεάτρου 2, Αθήνα
Closest metro station: Monastiraki
Why Athens Tip: This is a small indoor venue where smoking is permitted
Esperides
The picturesque area of Anafiotika within the district of Plaka, lies on the north east side at the base of the Acropolis. The pedestrianised street of Mnisikleous and the surrounding area comes alive with music and a scattering of tavernas. Situated along a staircase leading up to the Acropolis, Esperidestaverna would be the pick of the area. It is popular with a young crowd, who stop by in the early evening for meze and ouzo. You can dine above a small roof garden that has live music in the warmer months. It’s a bare bones offering with paper tablecloths and wicker chairs but you will get good consistent food including char grilled calamari, fava and traditional plates such as moussaka. You can sit back and enjoy the live music into the early hours of the morning with a carafe of their chilled home made wine and exceptional views of the Acropolis and Plaka.
Open daily for lunch, dinner and light snacks throughout the day. Pedestrianised access only, a short walk from the Roman Agora.
Address: 25 Mnisikleous, Plaka. T. +30 210 3221 753
For the taxi driver: Μνησικλέους 25, Πλάκα
Closest metro station: Monastiraki
Neo tavernas & modern Greek food in Athens
Barbounaki (for seafood lovers)
This fish/Mediterranean restaurant is one of the recent delights of the Kolonaki neighbourhood. It brings a strong seafood reputation thanks to its popular sister restaurant Papaioannou in Piraeus. Adored by both locals and visitors, they have an extensive menu. The house specialty of course is “barbounaki” (small red mullet) that can be pan fried or baked. A good opportunity to try “almira”, a stringy wild green vegetable that is served warm with olive oil and lemon. An extensive wine list or you can order house red or white wine by the half or full litre. Open for lunch and dinner. Bookings essential.
Why Athens Tip: Eat Greek style and order several appetisers with one or two main size meals (depending on your group size or appetite). This will allow you taste a number of dishes from the menu.
Address: 39B Haritos, Kolonaki T. +30 210 7242717
For the taxi driver: Μπαρπουνάκι, Χάρητος 39Β, Κολωνάκι
Closest metro station: Evangelismos
Athinaikon
One of the original meze houses or casual eateries of Athens that began in the 1930s, setting up shop in downtown Athens and regularly visited by both the intelligentsia and politicians of the day. Today, there are two locations and both provide an entirely different but equally enjoyable atmosphere. The older Athinaikon on Themistokleous Street, speaks of old world Athens with an air of heritage and legacy. The newer location along Mitropoleos Street is a more polished version, with contemporary/modern Greek décor that attracts a Greek business crowd and politicians from nearby Greek parliament. Although menus vary slightly from each other, both offer a truly great experience of modern Greek cuisine, if not set the record straight as to what certain dishes should actually taste like. You’ll find fresh, high quality ingredients. Italian influences also appear on the menu with a selection of risottos, linguine pasta and desserts. We loved the spanakopita, grilled squid stuffed with kefalotiri (cheese), feta and tomato. Other highlights include, moussaka in small clay pots, cooked to order and “Athinaikon” fish soup. Open for lunch and dinner.
W. athinaikon.gr
Address 1: 34 Mitropoleos St, Syntagma T. +30 210 325 2688
For the taxi driver: Αθηναϊκόν, Μητροπόλεως 34,
Closest metro station: Syntagma
Address 2: Panepistimiou & 2 Themistiokleous Streets (pedestrianised passage) T. +30 210 383 8485 *closed Sunday
For the taxi driver: Αθηναϊκόν, Θεμιστοκλέους 2 (πεζόδρομος) & Πανεπιστημίου
Closest metro station: Panepistimiou
Atlantikos
A small laneway in Psiri is filled with the aromas of Atlantikos, a street side modern taverna that sits opposite the city’s luxurious hammam. Enjoy a selection of seafood meze with a twist, including “barbounaki” (small red mullet) with caramelised raisons and fresh thyme or small chargrilled anchovies (gavros). Menu changes daily according to what is picked up fresh from the markets. A substantial list of cold and hot sides are available. Grab the fresh crusty bread and scoop up the delicious juices and flavours. Dishes pair beautifully with their homemade tsipouro. Open daily, 12 noon to 1:00am. Groups can reserve tables. T. +213 0330 850
Address: 7 Avliton, Psiri
For the taxi driver: Αυλητών 7, Ψυρρή
Closest metro station: Monastiraki
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By: Anastasia Mangafas
Source: Why Athens?
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